Old Dirt Bike's/Snowmobiles
This baby a 1985 ltf250rf quad racer I bought for $400, I rode it for 4+ year and spent approx. $4000 + (I am being nice to myself), You name it, it broke @ least once, and some stuff was replace 2, or 3 times. This toy taught me the most about fixing bikes (almost like tuition). The cases were split 3 times (shifting fork's, 2nd gear twice), 3 top ends, resleaved cylinder once. Every chassis bearing was replaced at least 2 times. i broke the frame (shock mount) and the swing arm in 5 places. 2 complete set of tires, 4 rear brakes pad, two front brake pads and upper and lower ball joints. 1 front hub, a rear grab bar, 2 sets of handle bars, 1 thumb throttle, 5 clutch's, a seat cover, 3 skid plates and I am sure a lot more that I can't remember. I sold it for $1000 (now # 4 should understand why I don't like Suzuki)

1981 Yamaha IT 175: This was my first bike, my brother has a collage buddy that wanted it out of his yard. $75 later I had a mint condition bike that wouldn't run (gummed up carb). No real work was ever done other than maintenance
This bike a 1986 XL250R I bought for $325 completely disassembled with the 1987 colors and sticker kit, it needed $300 in parts and sold it 2 years later for $1200

1985 XR 350 R Honda, This was a fun bike. I traded it for the IT175 in a sandpit. The catch was the tranny was junk 2nd and 4th gear seemed fine. After a long drawn out rebuild one of the shaft in the transmission failed due to an oil pump failure. Several gears, shaft, and oil pump impellers this bike was as good as new. The "long drawn out parts"! 3rd gear Honda's Micro fiche has a typo instructing my local dealer to sell me the wrong gear multiple time's and leaving me with no hope of being able to fix the bike. A friend mention a place In California "al baker xr only". 2 minutes on the phone and the guy said, " I know this problem" and I have 9 in stock! The second issue: the same local dealer sold me the wrong impellers for the oil pump. The oil level in the frame wouldn't register high enough. Even with 3 quarts in. After all that this bike was trouble free for 3 years of riding. Not bad for $600 investment including the cost of the IT175. Sold it for $1300 to buy the kdx

1974 Arctic Cat Panther VIP, My first motorized toy $200, This sled had a torque converter in place of the centrifugal clutch and always left a red dotted trail where ever I went. This sled broke allot almost every time I rode. I actually gave this sled to #5 he sold it a year later and we split the profits
1988 Arctic Cat Jag 440, This sled I bought for $800, rode it for 1 season and traded up to the Indy trail

1986 Polaris Indy trails: This Jewell was acquired at Brads in Clinton Ma for my 1988 arctic cat jag and $600. This toy was similar to the quad racer, with the exception the motor was never touched minus a rebuild fuel pump and carb boots. The chassis and suspension were noting but a pain in the ass. This was home of the frozen fasteners. There was very few actual failures, most work being done as maintenance with the exception of main drive shaft that broke clean in two and a rear shock (Both in my drive way separate instances). Of course these failures happen after the chassis had been completely disassemble just 2-month prior. This sled sold for $1300 another money pit gone!
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1982 skidoo, traded a bottle of crown royal for this sled. This has been the most reliable toy ever has only had minor repair, boogie wheel, stripped shaft, seat cover, 3 ski's, and a top end. I have owned this sled for 9 years now
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1991 Kawasaki Kdx 200 Stats on m kdx
List of modification: to my KDX200-e3
FMF gold series pipe part # k-14
DG oval Type II silencer/sparky spark aresstor
Alluminite aluminum handle bars and Pad
dunlop k-490 rear tire
metzeler unicross front tire
Pipe guard by devol
O-ring chain and aluminum rear sprocket 49/13
MSR racing fanny pack mounted to the rear fender
Proggesive Suspension front fork springs Part # 11-1143lt, 7.5wt oil @ 5"
Acerbis fork and front disc protector
Works connection skid plate and frame guards
Freddette chain buffer
Jetting : 70 degrees @ sea level
Main 150, pilot 48, needle 1173 part # 16009-1524, clip position 3rd, air screw 1 1/2 turns out
WPR Husky Page
2000 WR250
1. Remove the pipe reducer from the very front of the head pipe.
This mod made a huge improvement. Note Pro Circuit silencer will not work with stock pipe
2. Gearing was next up, i went with a 52 tooth rear sprocket
This requires a longer chain or an additional link and 2 masters
3. Tires, the stock dot approved tires are adequate on dry wide open
Terrain. Watch out when it's wet. I just installed a Dunlop 756
110/100-18 rear, and a Bridgestone M58 90/90-21 in front
4. Bark Busters and Moose hand guards
6. Pro Circuit pipe and silencer with spark arrestor. beware the CDR skid plate will need modification
7. Tag T2 Bars Cr low bend (see triple clamp link below)
8. GPS Garmin E-trek legend with Ram Mount
9. Shark fin for the rear rotor
10. Twin air, air box cleaning cover (for cleaning of the air box and winter storage)
11. CDR frame guard
12. Hebo Hydraulic clutch lever system
13. Replaced head set bearing
14. Re-Jetted Carb 380 main, 30 pilot, 60 needle middle position, 3.0 slide
15. CDR skid plate beware the CDR skid plate will need modification with Pro Circuit pipe, Stock pipe no modification needed
16. 3 Air Filters by CDR
17. Tri Star Adjustable triple clamp
Other planned Buy's: (let me know if you have any thing for sale)
Pipe guard
Front wheel guard
Tips from other Husky Owner's:
Remove stator cover after wet rides (mine has always been dry)
Kill switch are know to be bad (Mine has always worked)
Air box can and will suck water, be ware how deep you go. (I have sucked in water)
Pipe mod ( works awesome)
Gearing 50-52 rear sprocket (good improvement)
Clean air cleaner
Use spectro gear saver gear oil
Hose heat deflector (on the left side of the bike where the pipe and hose come fairly close, i guess pipes have been known to rub after you take a good hit to your pipe)
1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Holiday coupe Page
This is my 1972 cutlass s. 350cc 2b, dual exhaust. I call it a 322
This car is original except for the dual exhaust, headers, heavy-duty springs, speakers and the battery. Interior is black with bucket seats and a console shift, Am Radio, a/c, drum brakes, ssIII wheels, clock, Vienal top, sport mirror's, automatic, power steering
